You know how it is with some people? As soon as they open their mouths, you know who they are. The same is true with the whitemouth moray eel. This one is in a fairly typical position, wedged into a crevice with its bright white mouth open. They can look menacing with the head out and mouth opening and closing, but all they’re doing is pumping water over their gills, which is how they breathe.
In my attempts to identify what I see in the water, I use John P. Hoover’s book The Ultimate Guide to Hawaiian Reef Fishes, Sea Turtles, Dolphins, Whales, and Seals and his Reef Fish Hawaii – waterproof pocket guide. His website is hawaiisfishes.com.
The black triggerfish is a common reef fish, not shy about showing how it feels. The top photo shows its usual color, a dark body with bright, pale blue lines along the base of its dorsal and anal fins.
When it gets wound up like the one on the left, bright blue lines appear between the eyes. The more agitated it becomes, the more the blue expands. The one below is clearly not at all happy. I know when I’m not wanted.
In my attempts to identify what I see in the water, I use John P. Hoover’s book The Ultimate Guide to Hawaiian Reef Fishes, Sea Turtles, Dolphins, Whales, and Seals. His website is hawaiisfishes.com.
The Moorish idol is one of the easiest fish to identify. Striking colors, striking shape, and no other fish quite like it. This one not only hung around while I was there, but obligingly slid into a patch of sunlight.
In my attempts to identify what I see in the water, I use John P. Hoover’s book The Ultimate Guide to Hawaiian Reef Fishes, Sea Turtles, Dolphins, Whales, and Seals. His website is hawaiisfishes.com.
In this composite photo, a humpback whale surges from the water off the North Kohala coast. It’s been an odd season so far. The first whales were spotted off the island back in early October, provoking thoughts of a bumper season. Since then, activity has been spotty with little apparent buildup of numbers. This month, there were more whales to be seen, but still not as many as expected. Yesterday was the first day when the numbers and activity seemed similar to previous years. On a walk along the coast, I followed two pairs who were leaping from the water with great enthusiasm. It’s always a thrill to see these huge animals slowly rise from the water, hang for a moment, and then crash back.
This is a flowery flounder. What do you mean, where? It’s right there, on that rock. Truth is, if you don’t see a flounder moving, then you’re not likely to see it at all. This one was in a shallow area, hopping from rock to rock, in dappled sunlight.
A couple of times I took my eye off it and it took a while to relocate it, even though I knew where it was. Look up for too long and it will flit to a different spot. Good luck finding it them.
I particularly liked it when this fish bent itself over a little ledge in the rock (below). Not just a flatfish then, but a bendy one, too.
In my attempts to identify what I see in the water, I use John P. Hoover’s book The Ultimate Guide to Hawaiian Reef Fishes, Sea Turtles, Dolphins, Whales, and Seals. His website is hawaiisfishes.com.
The King’s Trail makes a straight shot to the south of Keawaiki.
The trail is marked by cairns and, in places, the worn surface stands out from the surrounding lava.
The trail takes a turn.
This hike is the first half of a loop from inland of Keawaiki Bay, south on the old King’s Trail to Kiholo, returning along the coast.
I was on the trail before 8 a.m. because the lava fields become very hot as the day wears on. The trail started out dead straight, with rock wall sides, until it reached a scrubby tree growing in the path. I figured it would pick up again on the other side, but this marked the boundary of the lava flow from Mauna Loa’s 1859 eruption, which destroyed fishponds and a village on the coast near here.
Instead, the trail wound over and around hummocks of pahoehoe lava and the way was marked mostly by cairns. Pahoehoe lava tends to be fairly smooth and rounded and is relatively easy to walk on, but still requires attention. It’s a matter of a moment’s inattention to end up jamming a foot into a crack and turning an ankle or worse. It’s also very easy to spot the next cairn, wander in its direction, then suddenly realize you don’t see any more because the trail has veered off to avoid some hole ahead or take advantage of easier going.
The tranquil waters of Kiholo Bay.
This is a stark landscape, unrelenting lava with occasional shrubs and tufts of fountain grass. But I like the history of the trail, its connection to the early days of Hawaii.
The distance to Kiholo is a little under 3 miles and I was plenty hot by the time I got there. But at Kiholo there’s shade to be found and the opportunity for a swim. I’ve snorkeled at Kiholo before, but it’s not the greatest. Freshwater springs make the water cloudy and cool.
There’s a blue Kiholo Bay Fisheries Management Area sign where the coast trail almost doubles back on the one I’d arrived on. This lightly marked trail winds around a bay rich with wildlife, most notably green sea turtles. Usually they’re hauled out on the spit that forms the outer part of the bay. This day was no exception. A cluster of 8 turtles had lumped ashore near the tip of the spit, watched over by a guardian heron. Others were scattered in ones and twos up the inside of the spit. I hiked down the length of the spit enjoying the welcome sea breeze and taking photos, making sure not to disturb the turtles. Then it was time to head north again. (For the return hike, click here)
For more info about this, and other hikes on the Big Island, go to bigislandhikes.com. (The hike is listed as Kiholo to Keawaiki, starting from the south.)
A heron stands watch while green sea turtles rest on shore at Kiholo Bay.
Green sea turtle resting on the shore at Kiholo Bay.
A humpback whale breaches in Alenuihaha Channel between the Big Island and Maui. That’s Maui in the background, about 30 miles away, with the observatory just visible atop Haleakala. Also just visible, on the water to the left, is an inter-island barge which ferries goods between the main Hawaiian islands.
I’ve seen this particular ray several times while snorkeling. I think it’s a young one, since it’s somewhat smaller than others I’ve seen. It glides over the coral with little effort, but sometimes shifts into high gear and shoots off with a good turn of speed. It’s not aggressive and doesn’t appear bothered by my presence, but since eagle rays have venomous spines near the base of the tail, I don’t get too close.
