This surfer made it look easy, but it’s not easy. It takes practice, lots of falling off, wiping out, and getting dragged across the sand. Practice or not, it’s the kind of activity that would have me in a body cast in no time.
Posted in response to Becky’s October Squares challenge theme of ‘Kind.’ See more responses here. Also posted in response to this week’s Friendly Friday challenge theme of ‘Practice.’ See more responses here.
This week’s Friendly Friday challenge theme is ‘Alternative Version.’ See more responses here.
Surfing originated in Hawaii and is a quintessential Hawaiian activity. When the surf’s up, so is absenteeism at the workplace. For last week’s challenge, I posted a photo of surfers waiting for a wave.
This week, I’m posting photos of one of those surfers catching a wave. In the photos, the surfer cuts a curve down the face of a wave, zips along its base, and then climbs up the face again. At the top, he jumps off, no doubt to wait for the next wave he can catch.
And the alternative version? Wipeout! In the bottom photo an unoccupied surfboard heads to shore, still tethered to the ankle of the out-of-sight surfer who wiped out moments before.
This week’s Friendly Friday challenge theme is ‘Balconies.’ See more responses here.
Not having any photos of balconies in the traditional sense, I thought I’d pop for a photo taken yesterday when I was down in Kailua Kona. Here, a powerboat heading north passes some surfers waiting for a wave.
The boat is taking people out to a dive, and like many of these kinds of boats this one has a couple of balconies (though they’re not called that in nautical language) where passengers can relax en route to the dive site.
In response to this week’s Sunday Stills challenge on the theme of ‘Water’ (more responses here) I thought I’d post something very Hawaiian. Most widely-seen surfing images feature a surfer cruising through a barrel of blue water or sliding down the face of a terrifyingly steep wave. But many people enjoy getting out on the water and having fun on whatever waves are available.
The Big Island isn’t known for its surfing spots in the same way as Maui and Oahu, but there are still plenty of surfing enthusiasts. Good, rideable surf often leads to an increase in people calling in sick to work.
These photos were taken at Honolii Beach Park north of Hilo, a popular surfing spot on the east side of the island and a good spot for kids to get to grips with the sport.
These photos are from the Kohala coast, which is somewhat screened from big Northwest swells by the other islands. I took them around the time of the 31st Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave surf event at Waimea Bay on Oahu. Eddie Aikau was a legendary big wave surfer and lifeguard at Waimea Bay.
It’s the 31st year for the event, but only the ninth time it’s actually been held because the waves have to be big enough for it to ‘go.’ Apparently, the surf this year was the biggest ever. I watched on my computer, which is about as close to waves of that size that I’d want to get, unless I wanted to test just how comprehensive my health insurance is.
There’s a common expression that has emerged from this event. While discussing the dangerous size of the waves before the first Eddie contest, Mark Foo, a professional surfer said, “Eddie would go.” It’s a phrase that resonated and is now applied to many things in Hawaii.