Category Archives: Places

Makalawena beach

The beach at Makalawena has golden sand and lots of space.
One of the things I like about the Big Island is that there’s so much variety in a relatively small area. It boasts 8 out of 13 possible climate zones (depending on whose definitions are used). It goes from sea level to almost 14,000 feet.

I’m happy to satiate my wanderlust right here on the island, traveling to see the outpourings of our most active volcano, climbing to the windswept summits of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, and of course, sweating it out on the coast.

The beaches and surf are hugely popular with tourists, but it’s almost always possible to find a sparsely populated, or even empty beach with a bit of walking. Makalawena, on the Kona coast, is one such spot. It requires a hike in, half an hour or so, but offers golden sand and a number of smaller pockets of sand where a person can soak up some sun and take a dip. Paradise indeed.

Clown with a parachute

A parachuting clown hangs from a tree.
Everyone’s scared of clowns, right? This one appeared attached to the sometime-in-the-distant-future shade tree by Upolu Airport. Presumably it was hung there in connection with the skydivers operating there, but imagine it on your porch, swinging in the breeze, just watching and waiting for your return one dark and rainy night. Dum, dum, dum, dum.

Signs: Kiholo campsite

One of the ocean-side campsites at Kiholo Bay on the Big Island of Hawaii
The campground at Kiholo is located at the end of a gravel road and is only open Friday through Sunday nights. It has eight sites that must be reserved in advance. There are portable toilets, but no other facilities, and no water. So what’s the attraction? Well, let’s see if the photo offers any clues. (Sorry, but the yacht doesn’t come with the reservation.)

For more information about camping at Kiholo, go to camping.ehawaii.gov/camping/all,details,57781.html

For more information about Kiholo Bay, go to bigislandhikes.com/kiholo-bay/

I’iwi

The I’iwi (vestiaria coccinea) is a native Hawaiian honeycreeper
The I’iwi (vestiaria coccinea) is a native Hawaiian honeycreeper, which is still quite common on the Big Island, as well as on Kaua’i and Maui. I saw several while hiking the Pu’u O’o Trail, off of Saddle Road. The fact that they’re bright red and they have a quite distinctive call makes spotting them a bit easier for a non-birder like me.

For more information about the Pu’u O’o Trail, go to bigislandhikes.com/puu-oo-trail/.

Pu’u O’o trail

A kipuka on the Pu'u O'o trail off Saddle Road on the Big Island of Hawaii.
More recent lava flows have yet to be reclaimed by vegetation. The greenery is a kipuka on the trail with Mauna Kea in the background.
A kipuka on the Pu'u O'o trail off Saddle Road on the Big Island of Hawaii.
When the trail passes though a kipuka it offers shade and abundant bird calls.
A kipuka on the Pu'u O'o trail off Saddle Road on the Big Island of Hawaii.
An older lava flow has been softened by vegetation.

It took me a while to discover the various trails off Saddle Road. That’s because, from the road, they look like they’re mostly lava with some scrubby vegetation, but this is misleading. The kipukas (areas of land where lava has flowed around leaving it relatively untouched) are full of plants and a haven for wildlife including many endemic species. The whole area is an example of the cycle of destruction and regeneration that shapes this island and, indeed, the Earth.

The Pu’u O’o Trail, off of Saddle Road, has nothing to do with Kilauea’s Pu’u O’o vent. It refers to the Pu’u O’o Ranch on Mauna Loa. The trail was used for moving cattle from one grazing area to another.

The trail alternates between crossing lava flows and passing through kipukas. Depending on the age of the flow, it might have a good deal of greenery on it, but more recent flows are stark lava fields. While the open lava flows offer great views of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea (assuming it’s a clear day), the kipukas offer shade and are alive with bird calls, most of which I don’t recognize.

After about 4 miles the trail intersects with the Powerline trail and a loop can be made back to the start, or simply retrace your steps. Bear in mind that if the clouds roll in, which they do on a regular basis, the trail is a good deal harder to follow.

For more information about this, and other hikes on the Big Island, go to bigislandhikes.com.