Tag Archives: Jo's Monday Walk

Keawaiki to Kiholo and back

The Ala Kahakai Trail near Kiholo, Hawaii — The ramrod straight Ala Kahakai Trail.

A few weeks ago now, I hiked the Ala Kahakai Trail from Keawaiki to Kiholo returning along the coast. Back in the days of the Hawaiian Kingdom, the Ala Kahakai Trail ran from the northern tip of the island down the west coast and around to the southeastern tip, a distance of about 175 miles (282 kilometers). These days, the trail is broken into shorter lengths with private property in between, though more segments of trail are slowly being added. This section is about 4 miles long.

Goats on the Ala Kahakai Trail near Kiholo, Hawaii — Goats on the trail.

The trail starts out clearly marked and very straight, with goats your most likely companion. But after half a mile or so a tree marks the end of this stretch and the way forward is erratically marked by cairns. I did this hike several years ago without a problem, but this time I couldn’t remember which way to go. There was a cairn up to the left and another up to the right. The one on the right was the bigger one so I figured that was the one to go for. Size matters, right? But when I reached it, I couldn’t make out where the next one was. A smart person would have backtracked to the tree and followed the other option. I chose to carry on. It’s not like I was going to get lost. To my right was the coast and to the left the highway with little more than a mile between the two at the widest spot. However, hiking across lava fields is tricky. Lava tubes can be a matter of inches below the surface and collapsed tubes can have cliff-like walls. A wrong step could pose a challenge for search and rescue!

Lava fields near Kiholo, Hawaii — Cairn ahead.

The landscape is stark, crossing the 1859 lava flow from Mauna Loa, the most recent flow in this direction from the volcano. Eventually, I saw houses at Kiholo ahead and figured out I was too far makai (towards the ocean) so I cut inland and found the trail again, marked by lumps of white of bleached coral and a slightly worn look.

A view of the lagoon at Kiholo, Hawaii — Kiholo lagoon. The pale lump on shore is a turtle resting.

A Green Turtle in the lagoon at Kiholo, Hawaii — Kiholo lagoon. The pale lump on shore is a turtle resting.

There’s a park, with limited facilities, at Kiholo, but the trail I took turned back north near the mouth of Kiholo lagoon. The lagoon was once part of a huge fishpond built by King Kamehameha I in 1810, but the 1859 flow wiped it out. The lagoon has a wonderful color and is a great spot to see turtles both in and out of the water, but give them plenty of space. It’s also good place for a swim, but not for snorkeling because freshwater intrusion makes for poor visibility.

A trail along the coast near Kiholo, Hawaii — Heading north on the trail.

A monk seal on the shore near Kiholo, Hawaii — Heading north on the trail.

At the head of the lagoon, the trail mostly follows the coast north. It’s a bit easier to follow than the Ala Kahakai Trail, but one still has to pay attention. I came to one spot where the coast was lower with little rounds of pahoehoe lava surrounded by water. Out near the waves, I saw what I first thought was another lump of lava, but then wondered if it was perhaps a monk seal. I decided to walk down and sure enough it turned out to be a resting monk seal in what I thought was an excellent spot for it: Easy access and very little chance of being disturbed. After I got home, I reported the sighting and learned that the seal was likely RA20. She’s a monk seal that I’ve seen several times before, twice at Kekaha Kai Park with new pups, and also at Upolu. It was good to see that she was in great shape and looked like she had recently molted.

A tide pool near Kiholo, Hawaii — Tide pool colors.

Ruddy Turnstones on the shore near Kiholo, Hawaii — Tide pool colors.

A little farther north, the coast opens to some beaches and an array of tide pools that can be quite colorful. There’s more birds here, feeding or bathing in the pools, and I even saw a Humpback Cowrie getting washed by the waves.

A swing on the beach at Keawaiki, Hawaii — Swinging towards Keawaiki.

Finally, Keawaiki came into view. At the southern end, some scrubby trees provided shade and a swing, though I didn’t try it since it was only about six inches off the ground. Beyond that is the private Brown Estate, surrounded by palms and fencing, and then Keawaiki beach and a short walk back to the car.

Posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

A walk for the birds

An I'iwi on the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — A native I’iwi.

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘Wild Animal or Bird of the Month.’ See more responses here.

Pu’u O’o Trail is a few miles east of the saddle between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, on the south side of the main cross-island highway. It’s all above 5,000 feet and can be cold, wet, and windy, but I’ve had good luck picking warm, sunny days. These photos are from a couple of recent hikes I took up there. Captions on the photos.

A view of the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — The trail enters a kīpuka.

The trail crosses old lava flows from Mauna Loa, but there are kīpukas, areas of old-growth forest missed by the lava, which are home to several kinds of native birds.

An Apapane on the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — An ‘Apapane.

An Io or Hawaiian Hawk flies above the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — An ‘Apapane.

On my last visit, I was lucky enough to see an ‘Akiapola’au, an endangered native species, which is only found on this island these days. This one was high up in the trees with the sun behind it. While my photos weren’t great, I was still able to see this industrious bird foraging for a meal. The shorter lower mandible is used to drill into branches and then the curved upper mandible digs out the grubs hiding within.

An 'Akiapola'au on the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — An ‘Akiapola’au.

These native birds make this trail popular with birders, but it’s a good hike for anyone. A 9-mile loop is possible, but I usually do an out-and-back hike through the first two or three kipukas, which totals about five miles.

Hāpu’u Ferns (Cibotium menziesii) on the Pu'u O'o Trail on the Big Island, Hawaii — Hāpu’u tree ferns (*Cibotium menziesii*) grow alongside the trail.

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park

A lava breakout from the Kilauea lava flow. — A lava breakout in a flow from Pu’u O’o covers the old coast road, which is now a trail (here).

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘Parks.’ See more responses here.

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is the best known park on the island. It covers 354,461 acres, which includes, not just the Kilauea area, but up to the summit of Mauna Loa and down the southwest rift zone of that volcano. The park contains 106 miles of roads and 155 miles of marked trails, many of them well off the beaten track.

I’ve hiked a lot in the park, though I doubt I’ll ever cover all the trails, but these photos are from ones I’ve done with links to the original posts for those interested.

On the Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs Trail (here).

View from Hilina Pali Trail in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — On the Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs Trail (here).

A low section of Puapo'o lava tube — Puapo’o lava tube is only accessible on a guided tour (here).

The interior of Thurston Lava Tube at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. — Puapo’o lava tube is only accessible on a guided tour (here).

Steam rises alongside the Steam Vents trail in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — Steaming Bluff on the Crater Rim Trail (here).

Daybreak reveals the onlookers gathered at the Jaggar Museum viewing point. — Steaming Bluff on the Crater Rim Trail (here).

The Puna Coast Trail features colorful lava (here)…

Colored lava on the Ka'u Desert Trail, Hawaii — The Puna Coast Trail features colorful lava (here)…

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

Kilauea eruption: 21st time lucky

The current eruption at Kilauea has been marked by a succession of eruptive events followed by pauses. The more recent of these events have consisted of the volcano putting out some small flows, succeeded by fountaining events with the fountains reaching up to 1,000 feet. I’ve been itching to go down and see this, but the fountaining often hasn’t lasted long. My challenge has been to hear about the activity early and at a time when I can go down. This has not been going well!

Last Sunday, after lunch, I sat down to check my emails and saw the daily USGS update for Kilauea. Apparently, it was stirring again, the 21st episode of the current eruption. I went to the video webcam and saw that it was doing more than stirring. It was launching fountains of lava into the air. Scrolling back on the webcam I discovered that the fountaining had started only 20 minutes earlier.

The 20th episode had been the shortest so far, at 4.5 hours of fountaining. My drive to Kilauea is more than 100 miles, but I figured that even if this was another short one, I’d have an hour or two to see the activity, so I jumped in the car and headed over. I left at 1:30 p.m. and got to the park around 3:45 p.m., finding it under a layer of cloud. The weather had gone downhill since I left and the park was a zoo, cars everywhere, edging around or parked in improbable spots.

Miraculously, I found a parking spot on the north rim of the crater and walked out to see what I could see. The answer was, not much. The weather wasn’t helpful, but the problem, which I suspected might be the case, was that the active vent was close to the north rim and so the activity was largely obscured. The prime viewing area would be a spot on the south rim, but one that was farther away, and low clouds were scudding through the crater. Would anything be visible? There was only one way to find out.

People watch Kilauea Eruption in May 2025

I drove around the crater rim to the other side and found a similarly chaotic parking situation. The park isn’t designed to accommodate parking demands on the scale it was experiencing. Luckily, I found a spot, not that far from the trail I had to take. The trail is actually a road that’s been closed since the summit crater became active in 2008. It’s definitely not usable by vehicles, especially since 2018 when a section of it slid into the crater. The road is still visible on its little island, just a few hundred feet below the rest of it!

The walk in isn’t far, about a mile or so. There was a fair amount of foot traffic, both coming and going. When I got to the viewing area, even though there were quite a few people there, it didn’t feel too crowded. There was a decent view of the erupting vent, a little over a mile away, but it was sadly affected by mist blowing through the crater.

I found a spot, took photos, watched the weather. It looked like it was clearing, then looked like it was getting worse. I was keenly aware of the drive home and that I had to go to work the next day. At one point I decided I’d give it another 15 minutes and if it didn’t improve, I’d head for home. 10 minutes later the clouds had blown through, the sky brightened, and the active vent was clearly visible. The only downside was that the sun was slowly sinking behind the active vent, so the lighting wasn’t the greatest. But I wasn’t complaining.

The visual treat of seeing the activity was wonderful, but there’s also the noise of the eruption, like being next to a busy airport. The fountains of lava in the photos are probably around 400 feet high.

I left the viewing area a little after 6 p.m. and headed for home, getting there around 9 p.m., by which time the activity had already ceased at Kilauea. It ended around 8:30 p.m.. Currently, the eruption is again paused, though the USGS expects the next episode to begin within a few days.

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. A short walk, but well worth doing! See more responses here.

A walk at Pu’u Wa’awa’a Cinder Cone State Park

A View of Maui from Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — A distant view of Maui.

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘Walk in the Park.’ See more responses here. These photos are from my last hike at what is officially known as Pu’u Wa’awa’a Cinder Cone State Park. The hike took place under heavy skies, but the clouds hovered just above the top of the hill and the rain held off until late in the walk.

A Northern Mockingbird on a snag at Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — A Northern Mockingbird announces its presence.

Silk Oak flowers at Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — A Northern Mockingbird announces its presence.

A Sheep in the grass at Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — Sheep and cattle are often seen on the trail.

Wiliwili seeds at Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — Sheep and cattle are often seen on the trail.

tree roots at Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — Tree roots snake across the trail in places.

A Horse and rider on Pu'u Wa'awa'a in Hawaii — Tree roots snake across the trail in places.

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

Hike to Kamehame Beach

Turtles resting at Punuluu on the Big Island Hawaii

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘Stark.’ See more responses here.

This seemed a good opportunity to recap a hike I did last year, but have failed to get organized into a post! The hike started at Punulu’u Black Sand Beach Park, home of the island’s most famous black sand beach.

As usual, there were a few Green Turtles resting on the beach. The trailhead, at the east end of the beach, isn’t marked, but hike up through a narrow band of trees and it opens out onto a lava bench. On this bench is Kāne’ele’ele Heaiu, an ancient Hawaiian heiau where human sacrifices were carried out.

The Ala Kahakai Trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

An old sandy road on the trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

Beyond the heiau, the trail is marked by flat stones. This is the ancient Ala Kahakai trail, which followed the coast from the northern tip of the island all the way down and around the west and south coasts, to the southeastern corner of the island. The hike follows the coast, passing through scrubby vegetation and across stark lava fields.

A Castor semi-looper moth on the trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

A grasshopper on the trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

There are some tenacious plants growing along the way, notably Beach Naupaka, which tolerates rocky terrain and salt spray. There’s also a variety of birds and other wildlife to be seen.

A Black Sand beach on the trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

Lava cracks on the trail to Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

Cairns mark the trail, though they’re not always easy to spot. It’s easy to wander off the trail, which is not a good thing given the large cracks in the lava and potential thin spots that one could fall into.

But if you don’t get lost or fall into a lava tube, eventually Kamehame Beach will come into view. This beach is important as a nesting place for both Green Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles. The nesting season runs from June to November, which was when I was there, so I knew I wouldn’t be walking on the beach for fear of disturbing anything. In fact, I thought I hadn’t seen anyone on this hike once I left Punulu’u, but when I looked at my photos, I saw someone at the far end of the beach. This was undoubtedly one of the researchers who monitor these spots for turtle activity.

A View of Kamehame Beach on the Big Island Hawaii

The beach itself is quite steep and, even if it wasn’t turtle nesting season, I’d have been reluctant to walk it given the high surf on this particular day. The round trip hike is around 6 miles unless you get lost!

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

The trail to Pepeiao Cabin

View from Hilina Pali Shelter on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — View from the shelter at the trailhead.

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘Great Outdoors Month.’ See more responses here.

I did this hike, at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, quite a while ago, but for one reason or another the post never came together and then went missing in my files! This hike started from the lookout at the end of Hilina Pali Road. A few years back, I did a different hike from this starting point that almost did me in (here). This time, having learned from that experience, I stayed on top of the pali (Hawaiian for cliff). My destination was Pepeiao Cabin (pronounced ‘pay-pay-ow’), about five miles away, though the trail is the Ka’u Desert Trail, part of which I’ve hiked from the other end (here).

Ohia trees on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — Ohia trees on the trail.

A spider wrapped in a leaf on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — Ohia trees on the trail.

The day was sunny, but not too hot, and with a nice breeze for the most part. The elevation drop (and gain on the return) is only around 500 feet so it wasn’t too strenuous, and the trail was fairly easy to follow. It passes through grassy areas and across lava flows, and is well-marked with cairns. Ohia trees dot the landscape, along with a variety of shrubs and other flowers. I didn’t see too many birds, but there was a decent show of butterflies and bugs. The views were splendid, down to the coast or upslope towards Mauna Loa.

Balloon plants on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — A Balloon plant on the Ka’u Desert Trail.

Balloon plant flowers on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — A Balloon plant on the Ka’u Desert Trail.

All the backcountry trails I’ve hiked in the park have featured something particularly unusual and interesting. On this hike, I was amazed by the substantial areas of sand on the trail or alongside it. This certainly didn’t get there from the beach, since the elevation is around 2,000 feet. My assumption is that it’s just volcanic rock broken down by rainfall, but just not washed down to the coast. Some of the sand was grassed over and it was like walking through dunes on the coast!

Sand and a pool of water on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — Sand on the Ka’u Desert Trail.

Footprints in the sand on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — Sand on the Ka’u Desert Trail.

Eventually, I reached Pepeiao Cabin. There are several of these backcountry cabins in the park, and they require a permit to stay at them. This one was typically rustic, with a catchment water tank that may or may not contain water, depending on the weather and use. There’s also an outhouse with a splendid view. Inside, the cabin was basic, but the kind of place I’d be happy to stay in if it was raining outside.

The Pepeiao Cabin on the Kau Desert Trail in Hawaii — Pepeiao Cabin on the Ka’u Desert Trail.

After I got back, I saw that the park website says “Pepeiao is in the southwestern reaches of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park backcountry. The cabin is no longer safe for use and visitors should plan on tent camping.” I was a bit surprised because I’ve certainly stayed in plenty of less salubrious accommodations in my day!

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

A walk on the South Kohala Coast

A green turtle on a beach in Hawaii — A green turtle rests on the beach.

This week’s Sunday Stills challenge theme is ‘The Great Outdoors.’ See more responses here.

Recently, I took a hike along the South Kohala Coast, starting out at ʻAnaehoʻomalu Bay in Waikoloa Resort, and heading south to Keawaiki Beach, before returning the same way. This is a hike I’ve done before, but not for some time.

ʻAnaehoʻomalu Bay is often referred to as A Bay because it’s a tad easier to pronounce. It’s one of the more popular beaches on the island, but head south, around the corner from the main beach area, and the golden sands are largely deserted. Well, except for the odd green sea turtle taking a nap.

There are a few rustic structures behind the beach along here, but it’s a far cry from the resort developments less than a mile to the north. When the sands end, there’s a short stretch where high tides wash up against a wall of greenery. Hiking at those times, which I did, involves nimble footwork or getting your feet wet. I’m not nimble!

A table on elephant carvings in Hawaii — A table supported by elephant heads!

The trail along the South Kohala coast in Hawaii — A table supported by elephant heads!

Beyond this point the coast becomes rocky lava, where flows from Mauna Loa have tumbled into the ocean in bygone days. The trail is mostly over a’a lava, which is irregular and rough. The trail itself is not hard to walk, but straying into the lava fields is another matter entirely.

A lost buoy along the South Kohala coast in Hawaii — I found this sad looking buoy banging around in a tide pool, so carried it higher on shore where it looked much happier.

The first marker on this part of the trail is the lone palm tree at Akahu Kaimu Bay. Just inland from this palm is a pool, which is mostly freshwater and deep enough to swim in. This is a welcome option on a hot day, but since it was mostly overcast with a nice onshore breeze, I didn’t take a dip this time.

A lone palm marks Akahu Kaimu Bay in Hawaii — The lone palm tree at Akahu Kaimu Bay from the north.

The trail continues over the lava field to the next bay and it was here I got lost. The coast trail often passes over the lava rather than follow the coast around points and the only trail I could see appeared to be doing just that. But when I followed it for a while I saw that it continued inland. However, I could also see that where it headed was to the Golden Pools of Keawaiki, which was I planned on visiting anyway, so I carried on until I came to familiar ground. The golden pools owe their color to a unique algae that grows here. These are not pools for swimming in since that could alter the conditions and destroy the algae.

A trail to the golden pools of Keawaiki in Hawaii — The trail to the Golden Pools of Keawaiki.

A view of the highway from the coast trail in South Kohala in Hawaii — The trail to the Golden Pools of Keawaiki.

Heading back to the coast, the trail comes out at Pueo Bay where I found an abandoned kayak, not in great condition. Keawaiki beach, just beyond, is another bay marked by a sole palm tree, but this poor tree has been badly damaged by storms and is no longer much of a tree.

An old kayak at Pueo Bay near Keawaiki Hawaii — Abandoned kayak at Pueo Bay.

The beach at Keawaiki Hawaii — Abandoned kayak at Pueo Bay.

Heading back north, I passed the sole house on this part of the coast, just beyond Weliweli Point. I have yet to see anyone at this spot, though someone obviously maintains the property. I got back to the bay where I had strayed off the track and realized where I’d gone wrong. The coast trail zigzags up from the beach and is marked only by a couple of pieces of bleached coral, which don’t stand out much on a beach strewn with the same kinds of coral pieces.

This trail isn’t a great one for birds, but I did see a Great Frigatebird wheeling overhead, which is always nice. And though this coast appears unforgiving, there are hardy plants to be found including native Hau trees and swathes of Beach Naupaka.

A Hau flower in bloom in Hawaii — A Hau flower.

Beach Naupaka flowers in bloom in Hawaii — A Hau flower.

By the time I got back to A Bay, the Lava Lava Beach Club was busy with dinner patrons, enjoying their meals at tables set up on the sand and close to the water.

The Lava Lava Beach Club at A Bay Hawaii — Lava Lava Beach Club.

Also posted for Jo’s Monday Walk. See more responses here.

Graham's Island

Life on the Big Island of Hawaii

Tag Archives: Jo's Monday Walk

Keawaiki to Kiholo and back

A walk for the birds

Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park

Kilauea eruption: 21st time lucky

A walk at Pu’u Wa’awa’a Cinder Cone State Park

Hike to Kamehame Beach

The trail to Pepeiao Cabin

A walk on the South Kohala Coast